From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

As we rode the tram from the train station up to the stadium in Debrecen we could easily see that in this town the celebration of St. Istvan's Day (Szent István napja) is no small event. In fact, it's a week-long festival full of concerts featuring Hungarian and foreign artistic groups, dance companies, majorette groups, and other events that all culminated with the big parade and fireworks on August 20th. And of course, as this is the Flower Festival (Debreceni Virágkarnevál) there's dozens of creations and displays of flowers. The parade floats were so creative and detailed that only by standing next to them could you see the flowers. It's said that some floats use as many as three million of them!

Most of the events were free, but a small admission got you into the stadium to see the floats up close and to watch the Folk Dance Show. We particularly enjoyed the group from Sopron and the whirling dervish. Outside the stadium, the carnival feel prevailed and there were plenty of chances to spend money on food (of the not so healthy variety), trinkets, and other flea market stuff. There were more booths scattered downtown, especially clustered near the main square in front of City Hall where a number of the events took place.

Clearly Debrecen knows how to celebrate, then again this festival, which also commemorates the wheat harvest, has been around for over 100 years. It was pleasant to get away from the tourist crowds in the capital and experience how a provincial city honors such important day in Hungarian culture.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Around August 20th tourist season begins to wrap up and children get ready for school, but first comes the celebration of St. Stephen's Day (Szent István napja), the celebration of the day King Stephen was crowned and the Hungarian (Magyar) state was founded back in the year 1000.

In Budapest, some of the festivities occur at Castle Hill, including the weekend-long Festival of Folk Arts (Mesterségek Ünnepe). Skilled craftsmen and women from all regions of Hungary come to show, sell, and demonstrate their talent and passion at preserving tradition. Booth after booth colorfully displayed felt work, lace, hand-painted wood pieces and pottery, puppets, kids' toys, porcelain pieces and baskets, and so much more. One of my personal favorites was the historic maps and Hungarian poems printed on authentic feeling parchment. And as you may have picked up from other posts, another favorite thing of mine is Hungarian food--so I was delighted to see the kürtőskalács (chimney cake). paprikáskrumpli (paprika potatoes), and kemencés kenyérlángos (a pizza-like lángos).

Whether it was a chance to enjoy the food, watch the dancers and musicians, or to admire the skilled artisans at work, the event was well-attended, even crowded at some points, and a healthy mix of nationals and tourists. Festivities wrapped up with an air-show on Monday afternoon (which I got to see them practicing on Saturday) and fireworks that evening.

If you find yourself in Hungary at this time year, you will not want to miss the chance to celebrate Hungary's birthday and enjoy the festivities on Castle Hill and the Danube.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Sitting just below one of Budapest's most famous landmarks (Castle Hill), the Chain Bridge (Széchenyi lánchíd) allows visitors to cross the Danube and head easily for Vörösmarty tér, the northern end of the popular shopping street Vaci utca. Not that the bridge doesn't get plenty of use from city dwellers going about their daily lives, it is in the middle of the city after all. However, in the summer months this architecturally famous bridge takes an even grander role in drawing tourists and home folks alike together as each weekend the bridge closes to vehicular traffic and throws a party.

Here's not only your chance to view the noble Castle Hill and Parliament buildings or enjoy the calming effect of watching the Danube valley boat traffic, but to peruse dozens of craft booths. And no party is complete without food and music. While the food is similar on both ends (with typical fare like kemencés kenyérlángos (a pizza-like lángos), kürtőskalács (chimney cake), sausages and peppers), the music won't be the same. There's a stage set on both ends, and one in the middle too, so there's a variety of traditional and contemporary music and dance to choose from. And so that everyone's got something to do, the stage on the Pest side offers children's programs earlier in the day and one booth offers bike rentals.

Although not as spectacular as an event like Taste of Hungary, the Summer on the Chain Bridge (Nyár a Lánchídon) has its own flavor and it's free.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Towering over nearly every other building in Budapest, St. Stephen's Basilica (Szent István-bazilika) is one of the city's grandest structures. Just like its twin in height (96 m), the Parliament Building, St. Stephen's is symbolic of Hungary's nationhood and plays an integral role in its historical psyche.

Stephen became the Sovereign of Magyars in Transdanubia in 997 and later united all the tribes. Three years later he received official, papal recognition from Pope Silvester II as the Christian king of Hungary, along with a jeweled crown and apostolic cross. Tradition notes the coronation day as Christmas 1000 or Janurary 1, 1001. And it is said that the city mourned for three years after his death in 1038 at the age of 63. It would be but 45 years (1083) before the miracles that occurred outside his tomb led to his canonization in Catholicism. He was also canonized by the Eastern Orthodox Church in 2000, proving him to be once again a uniter as he is the first saint to be recognized by both churches since the Great Schism.

While his first canonization quickly followed his death, it was over 900 years before the basilica named in his honor was finished. Although construction began in 1851, it took five decades and three architects to complete itbecause of war and the collapse of the dome which required extensive rebuilding. And while the upper building took some damage from bombings in WW2 (which were not repaired until the end of the century), its massive underground cellar kept safe many treasures and documents.

Although underground is not where you want to be when visiting this impressive structure designed in the neoclassical style. Gorgeous stained-glass windows diffuse light on the pews (which seat 8500). Statues of church fathers peer down at you inside and out of the building. And make sure you look up as many beautiful mosaics decorate the dome and ceiling. The Holy Right, the king's mummified right hand, is available for viewing for 100HUF in the reliquary.

Once you've taken in all you can inside, head up to the observation point and be awed all over again. The 360° view of Budapest is well worth the 500HUF (less for kids or groups) and the 364 stairs (though an elevator does cut the number significantly)--see photos and video clip in the SplashCast above. Besides seeing the two bell towers, one of which houses the largest bell in the country (9 tons or 9,144kg), you'll be able to spot Castle Hill, the Parliament Building, the mountains of Buda, and red-tiled roofs and narrow streets of Pest.

It's amazing roof-top view and peace-instilling interior may draw you back for more than one visit--which is good as you're sure to note design details you didn't see before.

For more information visit their website:
Saint Stephen's Basilica

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

When you're ready to splurge on a treat you may want to visit Gerbeaud Café. This is not the spot to order a simple kavé--unless of course you prefer a basic drink to go with any one of the dozen of desserts the café offers. And as Gerbeaud has a long reputation of having some of the best traditional Hungarian pastries passing on dessert would be a shame.

But Gerbeaud is not known just for its pastries, it is one of the oldest and largest cafés in Europe. Since opening in 1858, it has expanded and now includes a full restaurant, catering and banquet hall, pub, confectionary, and coffeehouse--all together spanning the width of a city block (Gerbeaud Ház). Indoors you are surrounded by cultured nostalgia, but a seat outdoors may give you free entertainment. The café is in the wide open Vörösmarty tér at the end of Vaci utca (or the other end of the shopping street from the Central Market) which is often the stage for musicians, events, and dance groups. If no entertainers are on hand you can people watch as the café is right by the Földalatti station (M1 Metro) and across the tér is a lovely statue and small park that is also a tourist draw. Of course being in the heart of the city and surrounded by other tourist attractions, this is not the cheapest place for a bit of refreshment, (coffee drinks range from 610 - 1,900 HUF, desserts 300 - 800 HUF), but still a must at least once if you can afford it.

For more information visit their website: Gerbeaud Café