Entries in Vár (4)

Vajdahunyad Castle - Budapest

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Don't wear uncomfortable shoes. A stroll on Széchenyi-island in Városliget, Budapest could be short, but why when you can walk wide tree-lined paths. Play catch in its park. Stop on the foot bridge over a narrow part of the lake (yes, it's man-made, but so what, it's nice) and enjoy the feeling that you're not really in the middle of a large, busy city. You can even rent a row-boat in the summer if you'd like. Or ice-skate in the winter.

Of course, one of the main attractions is the Vajdahunyad Castle. It's not a genuine castle, but rather a complex of buildings that incorporate architectural styles from the Middle Ages to the Baroque period. Ignác Alpár designed it as part of the millenarian celebrations in 1896 (It had been 1,000 years since the Magyars had migrated to Hungary)

Originally intended as temporary exhibition pavilions, the castle proved to be so popular with the public that between 1904-6, it was rebuilt using bricks to create a permanent structure. The architectural styles follow each other chronologically, so that Romanesque is followed by Gothic, then Renaissance, and then Baroque; yet the individual styles are masterfully linked together to give the impression of a single cohesive design. Even still, the architectural student will note that authentic details from twenty renowned buildings of historical Hungary are present. Budapestens named the entire complex after the main Renaissance replica (the Hungarian castle in Vajdahunyad, Transylvania) which is seen prominently from across the lake.

While the Castle and grounds are themselves worth the stroll, especially when accompanied by an ice cream (available at several of the entrances), there's other treasures to be found. In front of the castle is a statue of Alpár depicted wearing the robes of a master architect from the Middle Ages. Possibly better known is the statue in honor of the unknown author of Hungary's first history books, /*Gesta Hungarorum*/. Superstition says that if you touch the pen that the statue Anonymous, also called Magister P, holds you'll receive good luck. Also part of this picturesque retreat is the Museum of Agriculture, which has been housed here since 1897 and is the largest in Europe, and Ják Templom (look for more on this quaint church later.)

Posted on Monday, February 18, 2008 at 03:32PM by Registered CommenterKayakman in , , , , , , , , , | Comments1 Comment | EmailEmail | PrintPrint

Festival of Folk Arts (2007)

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Around August 20th tourist season begins to wrap up and children get ready for school, but first comes the celebration of St. Stephen's Day (Szent István napja), the celebration of the day King Stephen was crowned and the Hungarian (Magyar) state was founded back in the year 1000.

In Budapest, some of the festivities occur at Castle Hill, including the weekend-long Festival of Folk Arts (Mesterségek Ünnepe). Skilled craftsmen and women from all regions of Hungary come to show, sell, and demonstrate their talent and passion at preserving tradition. Booth after booth colorfully displayed felt work, lace, hand-painted wood pieces and pottery, puppets, kids' toys, porcelain pieces and baskets, and so much more. One of my personal favorites was the historic maps and Hungarian poems printed on authentic feeling parchment. And as you may have picked up from other posts, another favorite thing of mine is Hungarian food--so I was delighted to see the kürtőskalács (chimney cake). paprikáskrumpli (paprika potatoes), and kemencés kenyérlángos (a pizza-like lángos).

Whether it was a chance to enjoy the food, watch the dancers and musicians, or to admire the skilled artisans at work, the event was well-attended, even crowded at some points, and a healthy mix of nationals and tourists. Festivities wrapped up with an air-show on Monday afternoon (which I got to see them practicing on Saturday) and fireworks that evening.

If you find yourself in Hungary at this time year, you will not want to miss the chance to celebrate Hungary's birthday and enjoy the festivities on Castle Hill and the Danube.

Budapest History Museum

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The history of a city can be a small peak at national and regional history. Thus the Budapest History Museum (Budapesti Történeti Múzeum) is one of the best places to go for an understanding of not only Budapest's history, but also the entire Carpathian basin. Located off the back side of the Hungarian National Gallery on Castle Hill, this museum is easy to miss since it is off the beaten path. But there a four things you should not miss as you stroll through: The 3rd floor exhibit with its many historic maps of battle plans as well as weapons used in the liberation of Buda from the Trukish occupation. The statue area in the back end of the main floor has an outstanding collection of Roman and medieval-era pieces. The lowest level is actually part of the old palace and tucked away there is a chapel. And of course, as the museum sits on Castle Hill, the courtyard garden and tower (accessible only through the museum) give an amazing view.

The museum's collection consists mainly of artifacts dating back to the Middle Ages, found after WWII in the south wing of the Royal Palace. It also traces the history of Buda and Pest from pre-Roman to modern days. The temporary exhibit during our visit was on Maria Valeria, known as the "most beautiful empress of the world."

After you've seen all that you can of the three floors and the castle grounds above and below, you can stop for some refreshments at the little stand on the terrace outside the museum's entrance. Nothing spectacular, but as little of the museum is air-conditioned you may appreciate a cold drink.

Two things to note ... you'll be charged extra if you want to take pictures and as less than half of the descriptions are in English you may want to pay for the headphone tour set.

For more information visit their website: Budapest History Museum

Visegrád Castle Ruins

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In an area that rival's Germany's Rhine River Valley in picturesque beauty, one of Hungary's castle ruins sits perched on a mountain top. Visitors of the Visegrád Castle are rewarded with breathtaking views of the Danube river bends, Szentendre Sziget, Börzsöny and Pilis Mountains, and, on a clear day, Slovakia. Built in 1240-50s, this castle was not the first in Visegrád, but after the Mongol invasion a new fortification system was needed. King Béla IV's creation, with some remodeling and expansion, would successfully defend and protect the royal family and their treasures for centuries. And then the Turks arrived. It would remain in their hands until 1685, but was so seriously damaged upon their departure that it was never used again.

Fortunately, in the late 19th century a local priest urged the government to begin restoring it and today it is open to the public, as is the lower tower castle and the Royal Palace that are just down the hill, during tourist season If you start at the bus stop next to the boat dock and follow the path up, you'll pass by the lower castle. Here stands Solomon's Tower (named after a Hungarian king, not the wise man in the Bible) which currently houses the reconstructed Gothic fountains from the Royal Palace and other museum exhibits that share the town's history. From here the upper castle is a good half hour hike up an occasionally-steep forest trail. If you're planning on going via foot make sure you wear sensible shoes, if not, the castle is accessible via car and a bus runs up three times a day.

Entry into the upper castle does require a fee (600-1200HUF), but you'll be rewarded with not only the panoramic scenery, but also a look at Hungarian Renaissance life. Inside the buildings are wax-work scenes depicting court life, as well as arms and weaponry. Outside, jousting, archery, and the like can be seen.

This small town is nestled between Szentendre and Esztergom with regular bus service, but for a treat take one of the boats or ferries.