From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Take a step backwards in time and experience something of a Hungarian fairytale--complete with living folk art traditions, organic farming, and unspoiled natural beauty--simply by visiting a village in Székelyföld and the Hargita Mountains.

The traditional rural architecture with its porches, carved wooden peaks, and decorative Székely-style gates are among the first items that will capture your attention. As you spend more time here you'll also notice that Hungarian folk art in the forms of painted furniture, pottery, embroidery, stove tiles, and even straw hats are still being produced by the local cottage industry. In the fields around the villages, farming is still generally being done in the traditional way using natural fertilizers, horse and plow, simple tools, and human labor. For a while even these eastern Transylvanian villages are not untouched by modern life, you're still more apt to see horse-drawn carriages than cars.

The exceedingly beautiful Hargita Mountians, with peaks as high as 1,800 meters, dominate the heart of Székelyföld. Most of this land is still natural, covered in forest, and totally wild with the exception of a few villages, thermal spas, and ski resorts. There are some developed trails, as well as a number of old lightly-used wagon trails that are good for day hikes and backpacking trips alike. The Homoródalmás area offers over 125 caves for spelunkers to explore and many cliffs for rock climbing. Horseback riding, mountain biking, snow shoeing, and cross-country skiing are also possible in the Hargita.

This region is like a perfectly preserved Hungarian country paradise, awaiting vacationers who are seeking mountain adventures, who love farm-fresh Hungarian cuisine, and who want to get in touch with time-honored folk traditions.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

In an area that rival's Germany's Rhine River Valley in picturesque beauty, one of Hungary's castle ruins sits perched on a mountain top. Visitors of the Visegrád Castle are rewarded with breathtaking views of the Danube river bends, Szentendre Sziget, Börzsöny and Pilis Mountains, and, on a clear day, Slovakia. Built in 1240-50s, this castle was not the first in Visegrád, but after the Mongol invasion a new fortification system was needed. King Béla IV's creation, with some remodeling and expansion, would successfully defend and protect the royal family and their treasures for centuries. And then the Turks arrived. It would remain in their hands until 1685, but was so seriously damaged upon their departure that it was never used again.

Fortunately, in the late 19th century a local priest urged the government to begin restoring it and today it is open to the public, as is the lower tower castle and the Royal Palace that are just down the hill, during tourist season If you start at the bus stop next to the boat dock and follow the path up, you'll pass by the lower castle. Here stands Solomon's Tower (named after a Hungarian king, not the wise man in the Bible) which currently houses the reconstructed Gothic fountains from the Royal Palace and other museum exhibits that share the town's history. From here the upper castle is a good half hour hike up an occasionally-steep forest trail. If you're planning on going via foot make sure you wear sensible shoes, if not, the castle is accessible via car and a bus runs up three times a day.

Entry into the upper castle does require a fee (600-1200HUF), but you'll be rewarded with not only the panoramic scenery, but also a look at Hungarian Renaissance life. Inside the buildings are wax-work scenes depicting court life, as well as arms and weaponry. Outside, jousting, archery, and the like can be seen.

This small town is nestled between Szentendre and Esztergom with regular bus service, but for a treat take one of the boats or ferries.