From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

You just don't know where to look first when you enter a Tiszta Szoba. Dozens of plates on the wall create a motionless kaleidoscope. A ceiling high stack of bedding that reminds you of peppermint candy . Or the never-ending tulip pattern that weaves its way about the bright blue furniture. The collection of so many colorful objects in a small room can be overwhelming, yet knowing that you are surrounded by a family's heritage and pride is even more awe-inspiring. It's not as if mom and dad popped into a local Ikea or Tecso (think Wal-Mart/ Target), even if there was one (there's not), and stocked up on colorful plates and furniture just for fun. No, these pieces are made by hand and passed from generation to generation. Which is why we felt privileged to visit one family's Tiszta Szoba (literally "clean room") during our visit to the Kalotaszeg region of Transylvania. This area is one of the few places that this Hungarian tradition is preserved.

A traditional Cifra Szoba (fancy room), as it is also known, is typically furnished with painted furniture with the mákófalva motif of the upside down tulip, is decorated with embroidered pieces and painted plates that were wedding gifts, and stores the family's costumes for festivals. And even though it creates a riot of colors-- admittedly red is dominate--it's easy to see why one would collect all these hand-made treasures in one room. An outsider might see it just as a way to preserve a folk-art tradition, but if you could have seen the pride of our hostess you would know it's more than that. It's not cold history, it's loved memories.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Take a step backwards in time and experience something of a Hungarian fairytale--complete with living folk art traditions, organic farming, and unspoiled natural beauty--simply by visiting a village in Székelyföld and the Hargita Mountains.

The traditional rural architecture with its porches, carved wooden peaks, and decorative Székely-style gates are among the first items that will capture your attention. As you spend more time here you'll also notice that Hungarian folk art in the forms of painted furniture, pottery, embroidery, stove tiles, and even straw hats are still being produced by the local cottage industry. In the fields around the villages, farming is still generally being done in the traditional way using natural fertilizers, horse and plow, simple tools, and human labor. For a while even these eastern Transylvanian villages are not untouched by modern life, you're still more apt to see horse-drawn carriages than cars.

The exceedingly beautiful Hargita Mountians, with peaks as high as 1,800 meters, dominate the heart of Székelyföld. Most of this land is still natural, covered in forest, and totally wild with the exception of a few villages, thermal spas, and ski resorts. There are some developed trails, as well as a number of old lightly-used wagon trails that are good for day hikes and backpacking trips alike. The Homoródalmás area offers over 125 caves for spelunkers to explore and many cliffs for rock climbing. Horseback riding, mountain biking, snow shoeing, and cross-country skiing are also possible in the Hargita.

This region is like a perfectly preserved Hungarian country paradise, awaiting vacationers who are seeking mountain adventures, who love farm-fresh Hungarian cuisine, and who want to get in touch with time-honored folk traditions.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

As we rode the tram from the train station up to the stadium in Debrecen we could easily see that in this town the celebration of St. Istvan's Day (Szent István napja) is no small event. In fact, it's a week-long festival full of concerts featuring Hungarian and foreign artistic groups, dance companies, majorette groups, and other events that all culminated with the big parade and fireworks on August 20th. And of course, as this is the Flower Festival (Debreceni Virágkarnevál) there's dozens of creations and displays of flowers. The parade floats were so creative and detailed that only by standing next to them could you see the flowers. It's said that some floats use as many as three million of them!

Most of the events were free, but a small admission got you into the stadium to see the floats up close and to watch the Folk Dance Show. We particularly enjoyed the group from Sopron and the whirling dervish. Outside the stadium, the carnival feel prevailed and there were plenty of chances to spend money on food (of the not so healthy variety), trinkets, and other flea market stuff. There were more booths scattered downtown, especially clustered near the main square in front of City Hall where a number of the events took place.

Clearly Debrecen knows how to celebrate, then again this festival, which also commemorates the wheat harvest, has been around for over 100 years. It was pleasant to get away from the tourist crowds in the capital and experience how a provincial city honors such important day in Hungarian culture.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Around August 20th tourist season begins to wrap up and children get ready for school, but first comes the celebration of St. Stephen's Day (Szent István napja), the celebration of the day King Stephen was crowned and the Hungarian (Magyar) state was founded back in the year 1000.

In Budapest, some of the festivities occur at Castle Hill, including the weekend-long Festival of Folk Arts (Mesterségek Ünnepe). Skilled craftsmen and women from all regions of Hungary come to show, sell, and demonstrate their talent and passion at preserving tradition. Booth after booth colorfully displayed felt work, lace, hand-painted wood pieces and pottery, puppets, kids' toys, porcelain pieces and baskets, and so much more. One of my personal favorites was the historic maps and Hungarian poems printed on authentic feeling parchment. And as you may have picked up from other posts, another favorite thing of mine is Hungarian food--so I was delighted to see the kürtőskalács (chimney cake). paprikáskrumpli (paprika potatoes), and kemencés kenyérlángos (a pizza-like lángos).

Whether it was a chance to enjoy the food, watch the dancers and musicians, or to admire the skilled artisans at work, the event was well-attended, even crowded at some points, and a healthy mix of nationals and tourists. Festivities wrapped up with an air-show on Monday afternoon (which I got to see them practicing on Saturday) and fireworks that evening.

If you find yourself in Hungary at this time year, you will not want to miss the chance to celebrate Hungary's birthday and enjoy the festivities on Castle Hill and the Danube.

From my photos at Flickr Produced by Kayakman Media

Cobblestone roads wind past museums, churches, and fountains. Restaurants and shops painted in warm hues of yellow, brown, and orange snuggly sit beside each other welcoming you to come inside. And as it is hugged by the lower slopes of the Pilis range on the left and the Danube River on the right, Szentendre is a sightseer's delight.

It is known for many things. Its beauty. It old-world market appeal. Its museums--including the largest open-air museum of rural architecture and another dedicated to marzipan creations. Its history--as one of the few towns spared from the black death/plague (remembered by a simple cross in the middle of the main square). Its once-strong Serbian influence still seen in the number of orthodox churches. These factors added to its abundant sunshine, led Szentendre to become an artist colony in 1928 and therefore home of many studios and galleries; although dozens of artists create, and of course sell, their work in the alfresco.

While you can easily spend the afternoon in the tourist shops, galleries, and museums, don't forget to also get the bigger picture--a panoramic view seen only by walking up a small hill. There's more than one way to the top, but we'd recommend this simple route. As you stand near the cross memorial in the main square, you'll see a sign for lángos. hanging near a small alley stairway. Take the path all the way up for a great view, as well as to visit the Catholic parish church (still under restoration). On the way back down make sure you pop in to the small stall on the side for a lángos.--a delicious traditional Hungarian treat whether covered in garlic and paprika sauces or apricot jam. If you want to give your feet a rest, but still enjoy the sights there's a horse-drawn carriage that leaves from the main square. Or pick up an ice cream come from one of the many vendors and sit on a bench under the shady paved path of the Danube riverwalk.

Szentendre can be easily reached by commuter train, bus, and boat, each of which will also take you to another nearby (20 minutes or so by bus) sight-to-see: Visegard's Castle Ruins.